That feeling when you finish a book that you didn’t want to end, it seems like the author is a dear friend, and then you discover that he passed away a few months ago.
“It got dark in there. That’s how thick the wave was and how deep within it I found myself,” writes surfer Allan Weisbecker in his memoir In Search of Captain Zero. “I was in a crouch, which is pretty much instinctive in that sort of situation, but I could have stood up and still not gotten my hair wet. For the three, maybe four seconds before that wave spit me back out into sunlight with my feet still firmly planted on my board, I was exactly and without doubt where I wanted to be on the surface of planet earth. And there was not a drop of water in my universe that was out of place.”
I hope you’ve found that perfect wave, my friend! Descansa en paz!
